The governments of Gabon, Jamaica, and Sri Lanka have joined forces to fight back against damaging beauty practices, launching a joint $14-million project to eliminate the use of mercury in skin lightening products.
Using cosmetics to inhibit the body’s production of melanin, leading the skin to appear lighter, is a centuries-old practice in many parts of the world that continues to take a toxic toll today.
Both men and women use skin lightening products, not only to lighten their skin but to fade freckles, blemishes, age spots, and treat acne. However, consumers are often unaware that many of these products contain harmful chemicals including mercury, a toxic substance which poses risks to human health and contaminates the environment.
Skin lightening products can cause skin rashes and discoloration; scarring; nervous, digestive, and immune system damage, as well as anxiety and depression. The Minamata Convention on Mercury has set a limit of 1mg/1kg (1ppm) for mercury in skin lightening products. However, a 2018 Zero Mercury Working Group and Biodiversity Research Institute test of over 300 products from 22 countries found that approximately 10 percent of skin lightening creams exceeded this limit, with many containing as much as 100 times the authorized amount.
Led by the UN Environment Programme (UNEP), with funding from the Global Environment Facility, and executed by the World Health Organization (WHO) and Biodiversity Research Institute (BRI), the Eliminating mercury skin lightening products project will work to reduce the risk of exposure to mercury-added skin lightening products, raising awareness of the health risks associated with their use, developing model regulations to reduce their circulation, and halting production, trade, and distribution across domestic and international markets.
“Mercury is a hidden and toxic ingredient in the skin lightening creams that many people are using daily, often without an understanding of just how dangerous this is,” GEF CEO and Chairperson Carlos Manuel Rodriguez said.
“This initiative is significant as it focuses not only on substitutions for harmful ingredients, but on awareness building that can help change behaviors that are damaging to individual health as well as the planet.”
Skin lightening products don’t just pose a risk to the user – children can be exposed through breastmilk, and food chains can become contaminated when cosmetics are washed off into wastewater. In addition, the compound can travel far from its point of dispersal, accumulating in the earth, water, and soil without breaking down in the environment. With demand for skin lightening products projected to grow to $11.8 billion by 2026, fueled by a growing middle class in the Asia-Pacific region and changing demographics in Africa and the Caribbean, the use of harmful ingredients in skin lightening products is a global issue.
UNEP Industry and Economy Division Director Sheila Aggarwal-Khan said the use of mercury in skin lightening products was a serious public health issue in need of urgent attention.
“While governments have agreed limitations on mercury use through the Minamata Convention, companies continue to manufacture, trade, and sell toxic products to consumers,” she said. “UNEP is proud to work with these three countries, as well as a passionate set of co-financing partners to transform the industry.”
“WHO calls for urgent action on mercury as one of the top chemicals of public health concern. The health impacts of mercury have been known for centuries but more people should become aware now,” said Dr Annette Prüss, Acting Director, WHO Department of Environment, Climate Change and Health. “Countries should urgently act to take legal action against harmful practices so that this dangerous element is eliminated from skin lightening products that people use every day.”
The three-year project will bring the countries together to align their policies on the cosmetic sector with best practice, creating an enabling environment to phase out mercury and attempting to shift broader cultural norms on skin complexion through engaging organizations, healthcare professionals, and influencers working in the field.
Sema Jonsson, founder of project co-financier the Pantheon of Women Who Inspire, said the organization wanted people to admire and be proud of their natural skin tone.
“We are all beautiful,” Jonsson said. “Not in spite of our skin but because of it.”
“We need a new ideal to follow, one which is equated with humanity and not the fairness of one’s skin.”
This article was originally posted by UNEP.
About the Biodiversity Research Institute
Biodiversity Research Institute (BRI), headquartered in Portland, Maine, is a nonprofit ecological research group whose mission is to assess emerging threats to wildlife and ecosystems through collaborative research, and to use scientific findings to advance environmental awareness and inform decision makers. BRI supports 12 research programs within four research centers including the Center for Mercury Studies.
About the Global Environment Facility
The Global Environment Facility (GEF) is a multilateral fund dedicated to confronting biodiversity loss, climate change, pollution, and strains on land and ocean health. Its grants, blended financing, and policy support helps developing countries address their biggest environmental priorities and adhere to international environmental conventions. Over the past three decades, the GEF has provided more than $22 billion in financing and mobilized another $120 billion for more than 5,000 national and regional projects.
About UN Environment Programme (UNEP)
UNEP is the leading global voice on the environment. It provides leadership and encourages partnership in caring for the environment by inspiring, informing and enabling nations and peoples to improve their quality of life without compromising that of future generations.
About the World Health Organisation (WHO)
Dedicated to the well-being of all people and guided by science, the World Health Organization leads and champions global efforts to give everyone, everywhere an equal chance to live a healthy life.